How To Deal With Short Curly Hair

If yous've landed on this story, nosotros likely share something in mutual: A lifelong struggle with properly managing curly pilus, which also means a never-ending search for the right products and hair tools. So when I recently had my pilus cut by a stylist who dropped some major knowledge and gave me some of the best curly hair tips I'd ever heard, I couldn't wait to come up here and share what I'd learned.

One solar day when I realized my ends were more than carve up than our land'southward politics, I finally said plenty was plenty and scheduled an date with master stylist Ona Diaz-Santin, owner of v Salon Spa in Fort Lee, New Jersey. I'd seen her work posted by several "curly hair influencers" on Instagram, where she's earned the nickname "The Hair Saint." And equally soon as I sat in her chair, I could tell why: Afterwards more than 20 years of styling, Diaz-Santin has the kind of calming, Zen energy that makes even the worst hair crisis seem not that bad—making the experience feel less like a cut, more like a spa day.

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The girl of a Dominican female parent who owned salons in Queens and Jersey, Diaz-Santin has worked with all kinds of pilus throughout her career—simply her specialty is curls. (Makes sense when you take one await at her ain fabled ringlets.) But what I found most refreshing most Diaz-Santin is that she believes we shouldn't subscribe to a one-size-fits-all mentality for curly hair; according to her, every caput is completely different and should be treated every bit such. "I give props to the 'curly hair salons,' simply I don't believe that there is one single cutting or i single production that works for everyone—y'all have to become to know your pilus and what it needs. And your stylist should, too."

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Hither, the best curly hair tips from Diaz-Santin, that take non but changed how my hair looks (which is, if I do say and then myself, fantastic) merely also how I feel about my pilus. I promise they'll do the same for yous, too.

After my cut with Ona. Curls healthy, soul refreshed!

ane. When you lot're going for a cut, be every bit specific as possible with your stylist.

With every client who sits in her chair, Diaz-Santin begins their session with a conversation. "I ask all of my clients, 'What exercise you honey about your pilus? What would you change if you could? What do y'all hope to become out of your visit today?'" she says. "Communication with your stylist is one of the biggest keys to making sure you lot walk out of the salon happy, both inside and out."

While Diaz-Santin maintains that there is no one fix haircut that works for all curly pilus, she does typically apply versions of what's called the "sliding technique," a way of cut that layers the hair to add texture and remove majority. Just when I specifically told Diaz-Santin during our conversation that I did non desire my hair thinned out—and too, that I didn't want to lose too much length, since I'd noticed previous "gyre experts" tended to chop off way more than inches than I wanted—she used a gentler bear on during the cut to help shape my hair without removing as well much volume or length.

two. You might not want to skip the shampoo.

It'southward a common conventionalities in the curly pilus community that co-washing—or washing with conditioner only—is the way to get. Many believe that shampooing is actually non slap-up for curls, because the bulk of shampoos incorporate sulfates, which rob the hair of moisture—important for frizz-free curls.

Simply the key to healthy hair, according to Diaz-Santin, is a healthy scalp—and when the scalp hasn't been cleaned, there's ends upwardly being a lot of build up at the roots, which tin can affect the health of the hair. So fifty-fifty if yous don't apply shampoo every time you wash, she does recommend shampooing at least a few times per month to clean the scalp. And if yous practise decide to...um, 'poo, she recommends these gentler products:

Gentle Shampoos for Curly Pilus

And y'all tin as well try these curly hair shampoos.

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iii. Consider a hydrating mask.

Just like wearing a primer is the key to a perfect, long-lasting makeup await, Diaz-Santin says that the "prep" procedure is essential for achieving what she calls "juicy curls" that are shiny, bouncy, and free of frizz. "A lot of people are focused on conditioners, which is groovy, but applying a hydrating mask every few washes can really bring new life into your curls and also keep them healthy and shiny until your next wash," she says.

After workout her clients, Diaz-Santin typically applies a hydrating mask‚ like Organisation Professional person'southward, here on the left (which has worked wonders on me, even during my ain at-h0me washes later my appointment at v Salon). She so lets information technology sit for a few minutes earlier the adjacent step...

4. After yous've conditioned, run cold water through your pilus for a few seconds.

Rinsing your hair with common cold water does indeed help prevent frizz, according to Diaz-Santin. It aids in closing the cuticles, and is especially constructive if y'all've applied a hydrating mask—the absurd water seals everything together. Diaz-Santin rinsed me with cool water at her salon, and I've since tried it habitation and agree that information technology does make a difference. But, of course, merely if yous follow all of the steps to make your hair its best, like...

v. Detangle your pilus later the shower—and without conditioner.

If you're anything like me, you lot've spent far too much fourth dimension in the shower with a wide-molar comb working your wait through knots. And I've too washed it, as many stylists before had recommended to me, while wearing conditioner, which I thought was supposed to make the entire process easier. But Diaz-Santin warns that detangling while wearing conditioner tin can actually crusade even more tangling. Instead, she recommends outset post-shower, and starting with the next step.

seven. Before yous detangle, separate your pilus into four sections.

Offset by parting your hair horizontally, separating your pilus from earlobe to earlobe to divide information technology into two big sections. So, carve up each of those halves vertically into 2 pieces, so you finish up with four cross sections. Next, twist and spiral each individual section into a small bun, then clip three of them to your scalp to give yourself room while you lot detangle the 4th section.

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8. Apply a spray bottle to add moisture.

"While you're detangling, wetness is central to making sure you can easily work your way through knots," Diaz-Santin says. Before detangling each of my sections, she sprayed each clamper three or 4 times just to give it some added moisture. "Water is as well helpful to make sure your production can exercise its job. I'g non a fan of putting products in the hair when it's already dry—they'll piece of work best when your pilus is notwithstanding in its dampest course."

Wet Castor The Moisture Castor Pro Detangler

9. Employ a wet brush.

I know. I know. A castor? I'll admit that this particular tip was controversial for me, also, considering I've e'er been taught that wide molar combs are the golden standard for detangling curls. And putting a castor anywhere well-nigh curly hair sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. (Can't you simply hear the hair ripping from your head when y'all recollect of the word brush?!)

Simply this particular tool is actually made for moisture hair, with a bristle technology that glides through strands without tugging...well-nigh like magic. After Diaz-Santin used this tool on me—and then, when I later used information technology on my own—I found that at that place was a lot less hair lost during the detangling process. And information technology too hurt much less than tugging a comb through my knots.

10. Detangle from the bottom start, then the eye, then the tiptop.

It might seem counterintuitive, but instead of starting at your scalp and working your comb or brush down, Diaz-Santin showed me that past starting with brushing the ends, with a stop in the middle, by the time y'all get to the top of the pilus, everything else is detangled—and so information technology'due south much easier for your castor or comb to glide through. "Ends to roots!" was her refrain. And it works: I discover now that once I get the knots out at the lesser, pushing through detangling from the top is a breeze.

11. Don't be afraid of your fingers.

Diaz-Santin pointed out that nosotros're ofttimes so worried about finding the perfect curly hair tools that we forget about a given one: Our hands. Finger-combing tin can be much gentler on the hair while detangling, she says. And while border brushes are peachy for smoothing baby hairs, she as well recommends applying product directly to your fingers and using them to comb through and lay down wing aways.

12. Be nice to your hair!

Remember when I mentioned that Diaz-Santin is super Zen? While sitting in her chair, she reminded me that simply similar anything else on our bodies, our hair responds best when we're nice to information technology. In other words, not only is taking care of it regularly—with the best products and cuts—super of import, but also, exist gentle. "Washing hair day should be something that you expect forward to—not something you dread," she says. "And you lot actually don't have to go ripping through your hair to go through tangles and knots. But past taking your time and handling your hair gently, you'll find that information technology will be a lot less painful and fourth dimension consuming. Plus, your curls volition both await and experience ameliorate."

13. For bouncier curls, be generous with your product.

In this case, less isn't more. As she styled my hair, Diaz-Santin made sure to really work the product—for my thick pilus type that needs strong hold, she recommended Sebastian'south Liquigel texturizer—through each section afterward she detangled. And again, she wasn't agape to use her fingers and really comb the product through each section; using your finger similar a comb will help to separate and form ringlets. She used about 2 quarter's worth of product for each of the four sections of my caput. Liberally covering the hair with product volition help achieve bouncier curls.

Curly Hair Products

14. Air dry whenever possible—and when y'all tin't, diffuse.

I think i of the first lessons most curly girls learn is that our hair usually looks ameliorate—and less frizzy—when we let it air dry out versus blowing information technology out, and Diaz-Santin agrees that it's the best method to permit the products actually soak in and work their magic on your hair. Just of course, life doesn't e'er brand information technology that easy, and when you're running low on time and don't desire to leave the house with a moisture head, it's fourth dimension to intermission out the diffuser, a blow dryer zipper that softens the release of air while drying to prevent frizz.

Hair Dryer Diffusers

15. Use a satin pillowcase when sleeping—or tie your pilus in a pineapple.

Equally if humidity and wind weren't enough, another major crusade of frizz is friction—particularly when you toss and turn in the eye of the night. To avoid mussing up your mane while you lot catch your Zzz's, Diaz-Santin recommends a satin pillowcase, like one of these—which volition polish curls instead of agitating them similar cotton.

Another no-fail method is styling your hair in a "pineapple" before bed by loosely tying up your hair on height of your head—ends facing forward if it's long enough—to save them from getting flattened in the heart of the night.

Need a visual? Curly influencer Carolina Contreras, a.k.a. Miss Rizos, has a great tutorial:

16. To add together volume, handclapping your hands between your curls.

If you're skeptical near how this sounds, you lot're not solitary. My first thought was Doesn't motion equal frizz? But if you need to add a little book to your curls after they've dried completely (keyword: completely!) Diaz-Santin has a little method she's come up: Flip your hair upside down, and then clap your easily rapidly a few times between your curls. This gives simply the right corporeality of added volume without shaking the curls or causing frizz.

Exhibit A:

17. Wash your hair at least once a week.

Once again, Diaz-Santin doesn't have a one-size-fits-all playbook for things like frequency, considering it all depends on the hair blazon. She says that curly girls with thinner hair may desire to wash their hair more than often, considering the hair can get greasy and weighed down afterwards a few days, while those of usa with thicker hair can probably last a few more days. Only she recommends everyone wash their hair at least once a week, not just because your curls will probably be ready for a revamp past then, but besides because it's important to have intendance of them. "Merely similar your mind and your spirit, your hair needs self-care, likewise!" she says. "Having that ritual once a week is important for keeping those curls equally healthy as possible.

18. Get your hair trimmed at a minimum of every four months.

To keep your hair as good for you as possible and to avoid split ends (which equals frizz!) Diaz-Santin recommends people with curly hair get a trim every half dozen to viii weeks. But she admits that might not always be the most practical, so she suggests every 4 months or and so if possible.

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